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If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, you’ll quickly discover how wood chisels are used all the time. There are many kinds, many sizes. They’ll need periodic sharpening and it’s good to be able to do them yourself. It isn’t very fitting to have to bring your tools to a professional sharpener whenever they become dull. You lose money, you lose time. And best of all, straight chisels are the easiest wood carving tools to sharpen.

Straight chisels can be sharpened in two steps. The first is to get the tool’s edge to sharpness, and the second is to strop that edge to silky smoothness.

◦ Straight Chisel Sharpening. This is sharpening for straight square chisels and it’s very simple. Start with a coarse grade sharpening (honing or whetting) stone. Make the shaft vertical with the edge touching the stone. Slowly lower the end facing up until the edge’s surface touches the wood. Stop right there. With the beveled face flush on the stone, you have achieved the correct sharpening angle.

While holding the chisel’s beveled face flush against the stone, place your index finger on the top of the beveled surface for better control. Pull the stone towards you, away from the edge. Do this 10-20 times and then check for the burr. A burr is a feather-like sliver of wire that will come off the chisel’s edge when you have achieved absolute sharpness. You slide your finger across the edge (never lengthwise!) and a burr will feel like sand or grit on your edge. If there isn’t a burr, do another set of strokes until you’ve correctly raised it. If the tool has a second bevel, sharpen it as you have just done with the first bevel. Sharpen until you’ve correctly raised the burr.

After sharpness has been achieved with a coarse stone, move to a fine grade stone. You can do this with just one fine grade stone or with a succession of increasingly fine grade stones. Perform the sharpening strokes in the same way until you get a burr. If you’ve got a second bevel, do the same until a burr is raised. Be very sure that you’ve raised a burr along the entire length of the chisel’s edge, and on both sides. If you won’t make sure, just stop what you’re doing and go watch television. I’m not kidding. If you’re going to sharpen, do it well or not at all. It will affect how well you’re able to carve. (If that doesn’t matter to you, really, then what are you doing?)

There are a couple of different stroke techniques that are commonly used when sharpening straight chisels. With your index finger on the top of the beveled surface as you grip the shaft, place the fingers of your other hand on top of the first. Instead of pulling the tool towards you, you run it in circles. If not that, you can also push the tool sideways in one direction and then sideways in the other. There is no one specific method. Experiment and see which technique is best for you. I like the stroke that pulls away from the edge best. It’s the simplest way to raise a burr and then detect it.

◦ Skewed Chisel Sharpening. Skewed chisels are just a bit different from straight chisels. A skewed chisel’s edge is at a slanted angle, a skewed angle, and joins the side of the chisel head at an acute angle of less than 90 degrees.

Sharpening a skewed chisel is done in just the same way as sharpening a straight chisel. There is only one difference. The skewed edge needs to be made parallel to the forward edge of the sharpening stone. Or the edge can be made perpendicular to the side edge of the sharpening stone. Either way works fine. Just be consistent if there is a second bevel.

◦ Chisel Stropping. Your well-sharpened chisel now has burrs all along its edge. Well done. Stropping will remove those burrs and all other micro-bits still clinging.

You’ve got a couple of choices when it comes to stropping. First choice: You can use a free strap of leather to strop your edge in one direction and then the other. Lay the beveled face of your chisel’s edge flat on the strap and pull away from the edge, parallel to the length-wise surface of the strap. Near the end of the strap, lift the chisel and turn it over. Place the opposite face of the chisel’s edge flat on the strap. Pull in the opposite direction, away from the edge and parallel to the strap surface. Back and forth and back and forth until your edge is silky smooth.

The second choice for stropping your chisel edge is to use a stropping board, also referred to as a honing board. This could be in the form of a flat rectangular board, a paddle, a wooden bench or it could be one you make yourself. The technique for using a stropping board is just the same as the technique used on a free leather strap.

Leather strops and stropping boards are usually combined with a polishing compound. It facilitates the stropping process and makes carving much easier. It may be in the form of a liquid, a paste, a powder or even a solid block that fits in the palm of your hand.

Stropping is a very important step in sharpening and shouldn’t be dismissed. Think of it as you using a chisel with a dirty edge. It surely doesn’t perform as well as a clean edge. And because it’s dirty, using it will cause you to have to sharpen it much quicker than you usually would. So strop, and strop well. Your carving will be better for it.

Beginners need to be very careful when stropping. As novices in this art, the edge is often rounded instead of being polished smooth. That’s because the edge isn’t truly flat during the stropping process. A secondary bevel will be produced that thickens with each sharpening. Eventually, the only way to save the edge is to remake it. That would be a great loss in time and effort. Pay close attention.

When you’ve trained those hands to do a good job, you’ll be able to sharpen any straight chisel, any skewed chisel in your tool collection. That’s a lot you already know about sharpening carving tools. Keep it up. Just be so careful and watch out for secondary bevels.

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener. If you would like to find out about

The ultimate goal of anyone who loves to decorate their yard for Christmas is to set up a full light show that includes music. These shows can be difficult to set up, but they are spectacular to see and are well worth the effort.

Here are some steps to get your started on creating your own show:

Do your Research.

Before going any further, be aware that setting up a Christmas lightshow as part of your outside Christmas decorations take a lot of time and patience. It can be a great hobby, but it’s not as easy as plugging some lights in flipping a switch. So, if you are ready, keep reading.

You are going to need a few items to make this work:

1. A computer to do the programming.

2. A light controller with multiple channels. This is what controls the lights.

3. A software program to program the light controller. This will define when the lights turn on and off in relation to the music.

4. An FM transmitter to broadcast your music. Another option is a pair of speakers on your front porch, but it is unlikely that the neighbors appreciate the same song playing over and over again.

5. The lights! For a complete effect, this should include not just regular lights, but icicle lights, net lights and yard displays.

Organize and Plan.

Now you are getting down to the fun part. To make the show work, you will need to sit down with pencil and paper and design your system. Decide what music you want to play (preferably something that has to do with Christmas), and where the decorations will be. Your plan should include a drawing of your front yard, with sketches and notes on how the show will work.

Buy Your Equipment and Decorations

Now that you have your plan, you are ready to buy your decorations. This can get expensive fast, so do some research to make sure you aren’t overpaying. I suggest going through the internet for the software and control box for the lights. A search in Google or Yahoo should yield several results and allow you to compare several options.

Test, Test, and Test!

It’s important enough to say again: Test, Test, and Test! The first thing you should do is set up your controller for a single set of lights and make sure you can get it to turn on and off. Then get it to turn on and off to music. Then add a second set of lights and make sure you can get that one to turn on and off. See why this takes so long? It can be tedious, but the results are well worth it.

Set It All Up

After everything is programmed, it’s just a matter of setting it up. Hang the lights, set up the displays, and plug it in.

Now, all you have left to do is sip hot cocoa and watch your neighbors scramble to get their decorations looking half as good as yours!

Good Luck and Merry Christmas!

Ryan Harris has celebrated 30 Christmases and has loved every one! He currently has a blog of tips and how-to advice for Christmas decorations at Outside Christmas Decorations.

Want to bring the playful warmth of jungle animals to your child’s bedroom? In the past, decorating walls this way required sticky, pre-pasted wallpaper that was impossible to remove. But with advances in printing and printable surfaces, jungle wall decals and stickers are available these days that are both removable and repositionable. Every lion, tiger, elephant and monkey can come to life in colorful detail with vinyl jungle wall decals by Wallies, Roommates Peel and Stick, and many other high-end artisans. Great places such as the Wall Sticker Outlet carry these brands and more, and with free shipping too!

Jungle wall decals come in the form of murals, peel and stick appliques, and even single-application transfers. In mural form, a large pre-designed jungle wall scene is pieced together through the application of individual stickers and decals. There may be some flexibility as to how to set the mural up, and this is where creativity comes in. By supplementing your wall mural with a few extra sheets of jungle wall decals, you can add flora, fauna, wild animals, and anything else that sets the jungle mood.

Freedom is your friend here, and the sheer variety of wall stickers and decals allow you to create anything you like on the walls of your child’s bedroom. Jungle wall decals also come in different themes, from realistic to cartoonish. With the right ones, you can create the dark heart of Africa… or you can create a lighter, gentler jungle wall scene that would be perfect for a baby nursery decor. Many playful alphabet letters are draped with jungle animals, and these are great additions to young boys or girls bedrooms as well as playrooms too.

Another option for creating a jungle-themed room is the application of paintable do-it-yourself (or DIY) wall murals. These come as full scene pre-printed designs that are applied to the wall and then traced or rubbed. The paper is then removed, and painting of the mural begins. The colors are predetermined by the artist’s instructions, but part of the fun here can be adding your own creative touch to your jungle wall scene.

With the Dreamworks film Madagascar 2 coming up soon, jungle wall decals will soon be more popular than ever. You can seek out these very colorful characters, or you can create your own scene using some very detailed wall murals and sticker creations you can find online. Jungle wall stickers include the most amazing creatures on the planet – zebras, gorillas, lions, tigers and elephants… the list goes on and on. Hang vines down the walls of your child’s bedroom or build a lush canopy of trees near the border of the ceiling.

No matter which safari-type setting you end up with, choose jungle wall decals that will complement your child’s existing room or nursery decor. Get your child involved if you can, and use both of your imaginations to design the perfect bedroom. Most of all, have fun!

Visit the Wall Sticker Outlet for dozens of removable jungle wall decals and stickers by Wallies, Wallcandy Arts, Roommates, and more! You’ll find all types of wall decor including murals and wall hangings for children. And for more children’s decor, check out the baby boutique at The Frog and the Princess!

Prafulla is one of the senior-most woman artists of India. In her career spanning more than fifty years, she has traversed life as she painted. Her first painting exhibition in 1962 was a rendition of different moods of music in ‘Ragas’ in pictorial form. Her love for forms and colors was immediately apparent. She went to

If you’re going to do any sewing, you need some scissors. In fact, even if you aren’t doing any sewing, every household needs some scissors! They’re a useful tool, so it’s important to have at least one pair.

Scissors vs. Shears

First off, though people often use the name interchangeably, scissors and shears aren’t really the same thing and are meant to perform different tasks. Shears are used for the heavier cutting jobs, whereas scissors are best used for lighter cutting jobs such as trimming or clipping threads.

Shear Strength

A pair of shears generally measures about 6 inches or more in length. To hold the shears, there is a small ring handle for the thumb, and a larger one for inserting two or three fingers. Holding the shears by placing your fingers through these rings gives better leverage to perform the heavier tasks for which shears excel

Scissors Are Smaller

Scissors range in length from 6 inches on down to 3 inches or even less. Besides being smaller than shears, the handle rings are of equal size

Choosing Quality Scissors and Shears

Most scissors are made of steel. There are two main types of steel used for scissors. The first type, carbon steel, is used to make scissors with the blade and the handle formed in one continuous piece. This type of steel is very strong and stays sharp. Scissors made from carbon steel are usually plated with nickel or chromium to prevent them from rusting.

The other type of steel scissors are those made from stainless steel. A plastic handle is usually fitted to the metal blade. These scissors aren’t as sturdy and don’t retain a sharp edge as long. They’re also harder to re-sharpen. However, they are generally much cheaper.

Types of Scissors

There are many types of scissors available. Here’s a small sampling:

* Applique Scissors: Offset for level cutting

* Bent Handle Dressmaker Shears: Allow the cutting blades to rest flat on the table

* Easy Grip Scissors: With larger handles for those having difficulty holding scissors

* Embroidery Scissors: Used for cutting embroider threads

* Finishing Shears: Either as pinking or scalloping shears, used to cut ravel-resistant seams

* Heavy-duty Shears: For cutting leather, upholstery, drapery, etc.

* Thread Snipping Scissors: For cutting loose threads off sewing

There are also shears made for left-handed people, household scissors (all-purpose, poultry shears, etc.), paper scissors for children, scrapbooking scissors, electric scissors and more.

For just about any task, there’s some kind of scissors or shears that will do the job.

Caring for Scissors and Shears

The first and foremost rule of scissors: Scissors should ONLY be used to cut the materials for which they were designed.

Do not, I repeat, do NOT use shears meant for cutting material for household tasks like cutting paper. Using scissors for something other than the materials they were intended to cut will dull the blades.

Scissors and shears should be kept dry and dust free, with an occasional oiling at the screw. Keeping them in a safe place like a sewing box, or with higher quality cutting instruments, the box they came in, will help protect the points. Also, scissors should be stored in a closed position. Setting down scissors in an open position is the most common cause of dull blades.

High quality scissors and shears can be re-conditioned by the manufacturers or other companies providing that service.

Summing Up Scissors and Shears

For scissors to be used round the house, cheaper scissors work fine. If they become dull or broken, it’s cheap to replace them. For cutting fabric and other sewing tasks, a good set of shears is a wise investment.

Take care of your scissors and shears, and they’ll reward you with easy cutting for years to come.

Information about sewing simple, easy projects and more. http://sewingsimple.com/

Have you been thinking about what your next tattoo design should be? If you want a mythical design that will amaze all who look upon it, the best choice may be angel wings. These heavenly instruments of flight have a long history over the past millennium of art. Let your body be the next canvas, equal in beauty to Michelangelo’s work in the Sistine Chapel.

Traditionally, angels are seen as guardians of mere mortal men. They are prevalent throughout Christianity, Judaism, and Islam, so angel wing tattoos don’t really carry the stigma or relationship of any of these religions. That means that anyone can feel comfortable sporting a pair on their body. Angels also hold the distinction of being God’s personal messengers, at least to a sizable number of the people who will see your tattoo. Still, it’s important to realize that your tattoo doesn’t necessarily have to possess any kind of religious connotation. What’s yours is yours, and when the ink dries, you’ll have a unique design that has never been seen before.

Angel tattoos are thought to have different meanings in relation to the two sexes. On a woman, an angel is viewed as a means for search within oneself, often for the purity of the soul. When a man wears an angel tattoo, it’s thought to signal a deep and profound respect for women. Sometimes men who are deeply and madly in love will get an angel wing tattoo as a symbol of their devotion. Ladies, watch out! A man with angel wings is probably more passionate than anyone you’ve dated yet.

Guardian angels are also very popular. These are seen as a method of protecting the wearer from evil. One of the most frequent visitors to the tattoo studio is a person who has recently experienced tragedy in the form of a death in the family. They seek to ink an angel somewhere on their body to represent the departed person watching (and protecting) them from above.

Your angel wings tattoo can be as intricate or as simple as you want. Many people like a design that shows individual feathers. Remember that this tattoo represents you: therefore, it should be a unique and strong design that makes a personal statement. Obviously, with a more complicated design, you’ll need more money to make your dream of an angel wing tattoo a reality. Keep in mind that this symbol will be with you forever, so you may want to budget a little extra to finance the special little touches that will set you apart from the crowd.

An angel tattoo is a beautiful way to express whatever message you seek to impart to others. You’ll have the attention of an entire room (or beach!) whenever your tattoo is visible. There’s nothing sexier or more mysterious than an angel waiting to swoop down from heaven with an important message, and your tattoo will certainly reflect that. Head to a local shop today to see the different designs and styles available to create your unique angel wings.

Picking a tattoo design to put on your body is no easy task. The challenge of picking and finding a design you think you will love forever is half the fun. The second half of the fun is wearing a tattoo you love. Find your tattoo at Pro Tattoo Designs.

Most wood carving tools are cutting tools. Every cutting tool has at least one bevel. This is the sloping surface coming off the edge. But it’s more than jut a sloping surface. It’s actually a cutting angle. So the bevel supports a specific cutting angle that determines how the tool can be used. Experienced carvers know about bevels and how they affect cutting efficiency.

If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, and you’re going to purchase carving tools for the first time, here are some things you should know.

◦ Some carving tools leave the manufacturer without a bevel. This means that you’ll have to be the one to make the cutting angle, which determines the shape of the bevel. Many experienced wood carvers prefer new tools this way because they want to put the cutting angles on themselves. They don’t want to have to remake an edge.

◦ Non-beveled edges are only recommended for those wood carvers who already know how to sharpen knives or similar types of cutting tools. Beveled edges are essentially wedges and every metal wedge is, in effect, a knife. When you know how to sharpen knives, you can make the cutting angle (AKA the sharpening angle) just the way you want it. You control the bevel exactly.

◦ It’s pretty easy to find new carving tools with pre-set bevels already ground in by the manufacturer. Nevertheless, the new carver must be aware that, even though the cutting angle was created by the tool maker, it may not be the correct size or shape that they want. Don’t just assume that the bevel is correct. Know your needs, i.e. your specific carving tasks, and get the right tools. You shouldn’t rush this.

The cutting angle of your carving tool, or the length of the bevel, determines the strength of the wood you can carve. At its very basic, the greater the cutting angle, the steeper and shorter the bevel. The greater angle means more cutting strength on the edge. The stronger the edge, the harder the wood to be cut. What does it all mean?

◦ If you’re going to cut soft woods, you’ll want a small cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This is a very thin edge and makes for a very large bevel (a long backwards slope).

◦ If you’re going to cut hard woods, you’ll want a large cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This makes for a much thicker, slanted edge and a small bevel (short and steep).

Here is another important point to keep in mind. The size of the cutting angle on your edge can determine how much control you’ll have when carving.

◦ If you’re using a carving tool with a small cutting angle and a large bevel, more of your hands can rest on the wood. This provides better control and, therefore, better carving. Unfortunately, your edge isn’t as strong as it could be.

◦ If you’re using a carving tool with a large cutting angle and a small bevel, less of your hands can rest on the wood. This could make carving a bit clumsy because you’ve got much less control of your hands. It’s a curious thing. You’ve a strong edge that cuts fast but mistakes are easily made.

Because we’re talking about bevels, here are the three main types of bevels that can be found in wood carving: straight (square) bevels, rounded bevels (convex) and hollow (concave) bevels.

◦ Straight bevels. As the name sounds, these bevels have a straight square edge. They provide the most efficient cutting and the greatest strength to the edge for its sharpness. Many wood carvers prefer this type of bevel.

◦ Rounded bevels. The profile of a rounded bevel is convex and looks the exact opposite of a hollow bevel. More effort is needed to cut the wood because the wedge is normally thick. Therefore, cutting angles are large.

◦ Hollow bevels. Hollow bevels are concave and look the exact opposite of a rounded bevel. It’s a very unique shape but working with it isn’t very easy. Oftentimes, the hollowed bevel will unknowingly ride up on the edge of a cut so you’ve got to watch every part of it all of the time.

When you know the fundamentals of how cutting angles on beveled edges affect cutting efficiency, you’ll know so much about any cutting tool that you hold in your hand. Simple mistakes can be avoided and you’d be well on your way to becoming a skilled wood carver.

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener. If you would like to find out about

You want to decorate with something personal, but just can’t find it. It may be as close as your photo collection whether it’s in Grandma’s old photo album or on a modern digital photo system.

You can order a custom artistic photo reproduction and have a one-of-a-kind creation as a focal point or an accent to any home or office decorating scheme.

Here’s a list of 18+ ideas to help inspire you.

Now, think outside the photo album and decide what you want to convert to a permanent, personal work of art:

1. A treasured home: your first residence, an ancestral home, your dream home

2. A landscape: a snowy mountain top, a flowering meadow, a desert sunset

3. A seascape: a wave cresting with a surfer in the foreground, a sailboat heading into home port after a trip around the world, a full moon reflecting off of still glistening waters

4. A person’s portrait: an ancestor, a hero, a beloved relative or entire family

5. A favorite animal: a pet, an elephant in a zoo eating peanuts out of your kid’s hand, a giraffe in its natural habitat

6. A special event: a wedding, graduation, or awards ceremony

7. A historical building: the United States capital, the Westminster Abbey in London, the Parthenon in Greece

8. A wonder of the world: the Taj Mahal in India, the Great Pyramid in Egypt, the Mayan Ruins in Mexico

9. A sentimental building: the church where you got married, the hotel where you went on your ideal vacation, the theatre where you stole your first kiss or starred in a community play

10. A valuable item: an antique piece of furniture, an heirloom musical instrument, a collection of jewelry displayed on a Thai silk blouse

11. A sentimental centerpiece grouping: a classic novel with grandpa’s reading glasses resting beside a burning candle, the notepad and pencil you used to hand write your first novel, a place setting of your mother’s china pattern

12. A memorable scene: a nostalgic library setting with rows of books, a red-tailed hawk sitting on a tree limb, a set of alphabet blocks scattered around the floor with a special word spelled out.

13. A symbol of your life: the tree your parents planted the day you were born, your firstborn walking into school that heart-wrenching first day, the Statue of Liberty that welcomed you to the United States

14. Your favorite toy: an old train set, your first bike, a trunk full of miniature cars and trucks

15. Still lifes: the first bouquet of roses from your fianc

Jewelry collectors of the world know that often a piece of jewelry’s value lies not only its karat worth but also its past – where it came from, how it was acquired and the intrigue it has created through the years. These individual pieces, brought together, form prized collections that hold stories of conquest and mystery.

Considered to be one of the world’s most valuable and largest collections, the Imperial Crown Jewels of Iran is comprised of an exhaustive number of tiaras, crowns, thrones, and the world’s largest collection of emeralds, rubies, spinels, and yellow diamonds. Representing nearly 2,500 years of Shah rule in Iran, most of the items were acquired by the Safavid shahs who ruled from 1502-1736 A.D. The collection is so invaluable it backs Iranian currency as a reserve.

This Persian treasure also boasts the world’s largest spinel. The Samarian Spinel is a 500-carat, blood-red stone currently held at the National Jewelry Museum of Iran in Tehran. Like many treasures of its magnitude, the Samarian Spinel has a unique legend which tells of its use around the neck of the gold calf built by the Israelites while Moses was receiving the Ten Commandments.

Equally breathtaking, the collection’s Pahlavi Crown sports a 60-carat brilliant-cut yellow diamond and was created in the early 1920s for the last ruler of the Imperial Dynasty. The crown is also studded with 3,380 diamonds which total 1,144 carats and is made with red velvet. The official crown of the Qajar Dynasty, which ruled from 1796 to 1925, the Kiani Crown features 1,800 pearls and rubies, as well as emeralds and diamonds.

During the Iranian Revolution in 1979 that caused the collapse of the Pahlavi Dynasty, rumors spread that the Imperial Crown Jewels had been stolen and sold abroad. While a few smaller pieces had indeed been stolen and smuggled out of the country, most of the collection remained intact. Unfortunately, while the smugglers and their booty were caught by Pakistani authorities, the stolen items have yet to be returned to Iran.

One of America’s most famous jewelers, Harry Winston created a jewelry empire that now includes salons in New York, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, Dallas, Paris, Tokyo, and Hong Kong. Winston really began his collection with the acquisition of Arabella Huntington’s jewelry collection. Wife of railroad magnate Henry Huntington, Arabella’s collection was one of the world’s most prestigious. The jewelry, whose style was considered largely old fashioned, was redesigned by Winston into more contemporary styles.

In addition, Winston was the owner of some of the world’s most precious diamonds known to man. The Hope Diamond, which appears brilliant blue to the naked eye, was donated by Winston to the Smithsonian Institution. A curse was believed to have been placed on the diamond, creating financial ruin and heartbreak to anyone who owned it. Winston never believed in the curse of the diamond, which was once owned by Marie Antoinette. Today it is part of the Smithsonian’s National Gem Collection.

Also in the collection, the Napoleon Diamond Necklace was given to Empress Marie-Louise by her husband Napoleon. Made of 47 diamonds weighing a total of 275 carats, the necklace was passed down through the Empress’ family for generations. It eventually reached Winston in 1960 who sold it two years later to Marjorie Merriweather Post. Today, it is also on display at the Smithsonian Institute.

Purchased by Winston in 1935, the Jonker was originally discovered as a 726-carat rough crystal and represented the first a diamond of its caliber to be cleaved in the United States. The Jonker, the largest diamond of the crystal, was much beloved by Winston who refused to sell it for many years. Instead, he displayed the diamond at exhibitions. Winston eventually sold the diamond to King Farouk of Egypt, who sold the diamond to the Queen of Nepal. Eventually, the Jonker was sold at a Hong Kong auction for $4 million.

The personal jewelry collection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is conservatively valued at $57 million. Most of the pieces were given as gifts to the Queen. A magnificent piece of the collection is the Timur Ruby, a splendid 352.50-carat spinel. The piece is inscribed with the names of previous owners who were Mughal emperors. The Prince Albert Brooch is a magnificent sapphire which was presented to Queen Victoria by Prince Albert on their wedding day. Other notable pieces include a suite of emerald jewelry, large ruby earrings owned by Queen Mary, and a handful of diamonds cut from the Cullinan, which produced the Stars of Africa and other well-known diamonds.

Lewis Jewelers is proud to carry the full line of Pandora Jewelry. Pandora bracelets, Pandora charms, and Pandora beads are only a part of the collection. For more information, Lewis Jewelers, 2000 West Stadium Blvd., Ann Arbor, Michigan, 48103, 877-88-LEWIS or visit the website.

Among the oldest human art forms, bead making dates back to ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, where glass beads were fashioned from clay with a vitreous coating. In 1500 B.C., the traditional mosaic methods of bead making were developed. Glass bead making’s three major eras occurred in Egypt, Rome and the Eastern Mediterranean. The most renowned glass bead making era developed in Venice – the famous Murano glass beads.

One of the earliest forms of glass bead making, the wound method begins by heating glass at a temperature that makes it easy to work with. Wound around a steel wire in ancient times, the bead is shaped with the manipulation of wood, graphite, steel, or other tools. Often, the bead is further decorated with items such as colored glass.

During the Roman period of bead making, glass working centers were located throughout the Empire. One of the most significant bead making methods, drawn glass, came about with the invention of the blow pipe. Used to make drawn beads, the process is accomplished by pulling a strand from a gather of glass so as to create a bubble in the center of the strand which serves as the bead’s hole. This method proved to be faster and cheaper in making mass beads than the wound method before it. An artisan employing the pipe method was also able to expand a bead from the inside – eliminating the amount of glass needed as opposed to other methods. These refined methods of glass bead making allowed artisans to produce more glass beads during the 1st century, A.D. than had been made in the previous 1500 years.

Inspired by the Roman bead designs, the Franks, who controlled Western Europe in the late 5th century to early 9th century, also drew inspiration from Celtic designs. The Celt designs dated some 1500 years earlier, but were so admired the Franks harvested the beads from Celtic burial grounds to carry around for luck.

Europe was not the only place to give rise to innovative bead making. Middle Easterners also created beautiful beads also influenced by their cultural styles. During the Middle Eastern/Islamic dominance in the Mediterranean, bead making bears the influence of the Islamic religion. Beads were created using distinctive methods including trailing, feathering, and folding techniques. This Islamic period of glass bead making came to an abrupt halt with the Mongol invasion in 1401, followed by the fall of Constantinople in 1453.

Perhaps the most well known era of glass making took place in Venice. Glass making had been going on for some time in Venice, but in 1292 the glass making industry was centralized to the island of Murano in an effort to reduce the risk of fire to the city and to protect the guarded secrets of glassmaking. In fact, Venice took its glass making industry so seriously, glassmaker could face death for revealing their secrets or attempting to start a business elsewhere. During this time, glass bead making experienced a huge boom, as artisans revived many of the earlier methods which had been lost with time.

By the early 1600s, Venice already boasted more than 250 bead producers. Methods associated with the Venetian era include the seed bead, Cornaline “white heart” beads, and the chevron “Rosetta” beads, which are all various types of drawn beads.

Murano beads are typically made using the lampworking or torch and mandrel technique, a method devised by a Murano glass master in the 1700s. The most time consuming method, lampwork requires that each bead is fashioned individually. Once the ideal shape is achieved, layers of colored glass and gold and silver leaf are applied. As the bead reaches the cooling stage, it is removed from a rod which produces the hole for stringing.

To achieve the brilliant colors of Murano’s famous beads, a glass maker must conduct the mixing of chemical compounds with extreme accuracy. For instance, aquamarine is accomplished through the use of copper and cobalt. The use of gold as a coloring agent is required to produce ruby red. Specific materials are used by the glass maker to create Murano’s amazing colored beads.

Lewis Jewelers is proud to carry the full line of Pandora Jewelry. Pandora bracelets, Pandora charms, and Pandora beads are only a part of the collection. For more information, Lewis Jewelers, 2000 West Stadium Blvd., Ann Arbor, Michigan, 48103, 877-88-LEWIS or visit the website.